Is Lyon, France the Most Livable City in Europe for Gay Retirees?

Is Lyon, France the Most Livable City in Europe for Gay Retirees? With Eric Way

In this episode, host Mark Goldstein sits down with Eric Way, a Tennessee-born engineer who arrived in Lyon, France, in 1989 as a university exchange student and never left. Now approaching his 38th year in the city, Eric lives downtown in a 19th-century apartment with his French architect husband and splits time between Lyon and a farmhouse they own in the French Alps. He brings a rare depth of perspective: nearly four decades as an American expat, a career in corporate diversity and inclusion, and a front-row seat to how Lyon has evolved as a livable, gay-friendly city.

This episode covers what it actually looks like to build a life in Lyon: the walkability, the world-ranked healthcare, the cost of living compared to Paris, the LGBTQ+ scene, the visa path, and the honest trade-offs.

What Is Lyon

Lyon is France's third-largest city, located in southeastern France at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, a geographic feature that gives the city two riverfront parks and a distinctive linear layout. It sits roughly two hours south of Paris by high-speed train and serves as a hub for reaching the French Alps, the Beaujolais wine region, Burgundy, the Riviera, and even Barcelona. The historic center, known as the Presqu'île (the peninsula), is a UNESCO World Heritage site dating back to the Renaissance and the Middle Ages. Lyon is widely considered the gastronomic capital of France.

Why Eric Chose Lyon

Eric arrived in 1989 on a one-year university exchange program and found something he did not expect: a city whose values matched his own. Coming from a fundamentalist Christian family in Tennessee and still in the process of coming out, he discovered in Lyon a culture of live-and-let-live tolerance that felt, in his words, freer than the United States. He stayed. A few years later, he met his husband. The rest, as he says, is history.

LGBTQ+ Life

Lyon has a visible but modest LGBTQ+ scene concentrated around the City Hall area on the Presqu'île. At the time of recording, there are two gay bars, a gay sauna, a sex club, and a bear bar reportedly opening within months. There is a city-sponsored LGBTQ+ center and an annual Pride march, though Eric notes that Lyon Pride has become more politically divided in recent years, with some organizers now refusing corporate participation. The broader city is deeply accepting. Eric and his husband have lived part-time in a 250-person Alpine village for years and describe being fully adopted by their elderly neighbors without a moment of discomfort. Among their friend group, gay and straight friendships naturally overlap, though, like many couples without children, their closest circle has become predominantly other gay couples over time.

Daily Life and Walkability

Eric's doctor is three blocks away. His pharmacy, organic grocery store, bank, bakery, butcher, and eye care are all within one to two blocks. Outdoor markets run on Wednesdays and Sundays in his neighborhood. The metro system is efficient and growing, with a tram network expanding even faster. A single ticket costs approximately 2.30 euros and covers one hour of travel. Monthly passes run around 100 euros. Seniors receive rail discounts starting at age 60, often allowing first-class travel at second-class prices.

Eric drives his older car into Lyon no more than 52 times per year under a city environmental permit system, which he now finds perfectly adequate since he is no longer working. Lyon's riverfront parks, pedestrian streets, and walkable neighborhoods make car ownership largely optional for daily life.

Costs and Housing

Lyon is typically half the price of Paris for both rent and property. Eric and his husband purchased their 800-square-foot, two-bedroom downtown apartment approximately 30 years ago for about $35,000. It is now worth roughly ten times that. Their monthly electricity bill runs approximately 70 to 80 euros every two months; gas adds about 45 euros on top of that. France applies a 20% VAT on most purchases, which is worth factoring into any cost-of-living comparison.

Healthcare

France's healthcare system consistently ranks first in the world for quality, accessibility, and cost. A standard doctor visit costs 30 euros; specialist visits range from 70 to over 100 euros. Foreign residents access coverage through PUMA, France's universal health coverage, which applies to legal residents regardless of employment status. Most residents also carry a Mutuelle, a supplementary top-up insurance policy that covers what the national system does not. Eric pays approximately 250 euros per month for a Mutuelle covering both himself and his husband.

Visas and Residency

The standard route for American retirees is a long-stay visitor visa, applied for through the French consulate in the United States before departure. Residents typically start with one-year renewals before eventually qualifying for a ten-year card. Eric notes that a recent change to French law has removed the citizenship pathway for non-working residents. Americans retiring to France on a visitor visa are unlikely to be eligible for naturalization under the current rules.

France does not officially recognize a digital nomad visa. Eric cautions anyone planning to work remotely in France to take legal advice before doing so, as working without proper authorization carries real risk.

Taxes

The US-France tax treaty is highly favorable for American retirees. If your income is US-sourced, France will generally not tax it, and you will continue paying US rates. Eric recommends working with both a US tax preparer and a French one, particularly for the first few years.

One specific flag: France does not recognize trusts. If you have a trust established in the United States, you need professional advice before moving to France, as it will be taxed very unfavorably and may fall outside the treaty's protections.

France also has a wealth tax on real estate holdings above approximately 1.2 million euros, and forced heirship laws that entitle children to a portion of your estate regardless of your wishes. Both are worth understanding before making the move.

Crime and Safety

Eric has lived in Lyon's city center for nearly four decades and describes feeling consistently safe. In that entire time, he recalls one incident in which he and his husband were briefly followed downtown and had to walk away quickly. France has a higher rate of property crime relative to the United States, but a significantly lower rate of violent crime and essentially no gun violence outside of hunting contexts. Responsible gun ownership is legally required: pistols for target shooting require a course and registration.

Arts, Culture, and Community

Lyon has the second-largest fine arts museum in France outside the Louvre, a national orchestra, a Jean Nouvel-designed opera house, the Maison de la Danse (an internationally renowned contemporary dance center with a biennial festival), and rotating modern art exhibitions in repurposed industrial spaces. The Festival of Lights each December transforms the city's buildings into a four-day sound-and-light spectacle. June 21 brings the Fête de la Musique, a nationwide outdoor concert event where every square in the city fills with live music from classical to rock to jazz.

What to Know Before You Go

French is essential. Eric is direct about this: people who arrive expecting to get by on a few phrases or believing fluency will come by osmosis are setting themselves up for frustration and social isolation. He recommends investing in one-on-one instruction before you arrive, not after. Jumpspeak is his suggested app for building conversational fluency.

The climate has four seasons: mild winters with rare snow, pleasant springs and autumns, and summers that are warming noticeably due to climate change. Eric manages without air conditioning through insulation techniques, though newer and renovated buildings increasingly have heat pumps that provide cooling as a byproduct.

Lyon rewards people who want to get out and explore. The city sits at the gateway to the Alps, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Provence, the Riviera, Switzerland, and Italy. Eric and his husband once went bungee jumping in the Alps, drove to Italy for pasta for dinner, and were home in Lyon that night. For those who prefer to stay closer to home, the outdoor markets, river walks, and restaurant scene are enough to fill a very good life.

Resources Mentioned

Presqu'ile: Lyon's central peninsula neighborhood between the Rhone and Saone rivers Perrache: The original Lyon train station, three minutes from Eric's apartment Fourviere: The hilltop with Lyon's famous basilica and Roman ruins Beaujolais vineyards: 30 minutes from Lyon; beautiful in autumn Albertville: Near Eric's Alpine farmhouse; site of the 1992 Winter Olympics Festival of Lights (Fete des Lumieres): Annual four-day light installation festival each December Fete de la Musique: June 21, nationwide outdoor music festival Maison de la Danse: Lyon's internationally recognized contemporary dance center PUMA: France's universal health coverage for residents Mutuelle: Supplementary insurance that tops up public healthcare coverage PACS: French civil partnership; same tax treatment as marriage, with one exception: survivor pension rights do not transfer unless married Jumpspeak: Language learning app recommended by Eric for conversational French

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The information shared in this episode reflects the personal experience of our guest and is not intended as legal, financial, or medical advice. Please consult qualified professionals before making any decisions about international relocation, visa applications, healthcare, or financial planning.